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Yamaroku Shoyu on Shodoshima: a wooden-barrel brewhouse home to a hundred microbes, and ice cream with soy sauce

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We drove down a narrow road to Yamaroku Shoyu on Shodoshima. It is a brewery that still ferments its soy sauce in wooden barrels, and you can walk through the brewhouse and taste the finished soy sauce. Visits are free and no reservation is needed.

The old Japanese buildings of Yamaroku Shoyu under a blue sky, with tables in the courtyard
Yamaroku Shoyu. There are tables in the courtyard

The smell of a wooden-barrel brewhouse

A dim passage inside the brewhouse, lined with wooden scaffolding and large wooden barrels
Inside the brewhouse, among the barrels

The brewhouse, full of wooden barrels, had a smell all its own — something sweet, and at the same time the saltiness of soy sauce.

A large wooden barrel set into the brewhouse floor, with moromi mash ageing inside
Moromi mash ageing in a wooden barrel

A brewhouse home to a hundred kinds of microbes

According to what we were told at the brewery, around a hundred kinds of microbes live in this brewhouse, and that ecosystem changes the flavour of the soy sauce. An ordinary soy sauce, they said, involves only a few kinds.

Could the depth of the flavour come from that many microbes? The thought moved me.

Yamaroku’s own website also explains that the yeasts and lactic acid bacteria that have settled in a brewhouse create an ecosystem unique to each brewery. Soy sauce made in wooden barrels is said to be less than 1% of all soy sauce produced.

The shop inside the brewhouse, with bottles of soy sauce and explanatory notices
The shop inside the brewhouse

Soy sauce on ice cream, at a veranda-style table

Here we had soy sauce ice cream and an iced coffee. The menu calls it “ice cream with Tsuru Bishio” — ice cream with Yamaroku’s Tsuru Bishio soy sauce poured over it.

Ice cream and a small bottle of Tsuru Bishio on a wooden table, with a menu reading ice cream with Tsuru Bishio 440 yen
Ice cream with Tsuru Bishio (¥440)
Iced coffee in a small cup set inside a miniature wooden barrel
The iced coffee came in what looked like a tiny wooden barrel

It was just warm enough for short sleeves. Surrounded by a deep blue sky and dense green, with a wind chime making it feel cooler still, the time we spent as a family at that veranda-style table felt like true luxury.

A family I can spend time with without putting on airs, nature, and a delicious, slightly sweet ice cream. It does not get better than that.

Before you go

  • Address: 1607 Yasuda-ko, Shodoshima-cho, Shozu-gun, Kagawa
  • Visits: 9:00–17:00, open every day (according to Shodoshima Town). Free, no reservation needed
  • The road to the brewery is narrow. Parking for 4–5 cars at the front and back
  • The on-site Yamaroku Chaya café serves desserts and drinks made with their soy sauce

Details were checked in September 2026 on the Yamaroku Shoyu official website and Shodoshima Town’s information pages. Visiting arrangements may change, so please check before you go.

📖 A companion guide from Private Wisdom

Going beyond the usual route? Off the Beaten Path in Japan — the islands, small towns and quiet corners most visitors never reach, and how to get to them, from a long-time local. Free to read with Kindle Unlimited.

▶ Read on Amazon (Kindle Unlimited)

Awaji, Kagawa and Shodoshima (September 2026)

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