We drove down a narrow road to Yamaroku Shoyu on Shodoshima. It is a brewery that still ferments its soy sauce in wooden barrels, and you can walk through the brewhouse and taste the finished soy sauce. Visits are free and no reservation is needed.

The smell of a wooden-barrel brewhouse

The brewhouse, full of wooden barrels, had a smell all its own — something sweet, and at the same time the saltiness of soy sauce.

A brewhouse home to a hundred kinds of microbes
According to what we were told at the brewery, around a hundred kinds of microbes live in this brewhouse, and that ecosystem changes the flavour of the soy sauce. An ordinary soy sauce, they said, involves only a few kinds.
Could the depth of the flavour come from that many microbes? The thought moved me.
Yamaroku’s own website also explains that the yeasts and lactic acid bacteria that have settled in a brewhouse create an ecosystem unique to each brewery. Soy sauce made in wooden barrels is said to be less than 1% of all soy sauce produced.

Soy sauce on ice cream, at a veranda-style table
Here we had soy sauce ice cream and an iced coffee. The menu calls it “ice cream with Tsuru Bishio” — ice cream with Yamaroku’s Tsuru Bishio soy sauce poured over it.


It was just warm enough for short sleeves. Surrounded by a deep blue sky and dense green, with a wind chime making it feel cooler still, the time we spent as a family at that veranda-style table felt like true luxury.
A family I can spend time with without putting on airs, nature, and a delicious, slightly sweet ice cream. It does not get better than that.
Before you go
- Address: 1607 Yasuda-ko, Shodoshima-cho, Shozu-gun, Kagawa
- Visits: 9:00–17:00, open every day (according to Shodoshima Town). Free, no reservation needed
- The road to the brewery is narrow. Parking for 4–5 cars at the front and back
- The on-site Yamaroku Chaya café serves desserts and drinks made with their soy sauce
Details were checked in September 2026 on the Yamaroku Shoyu official website and Shodoshima Town’s information pages. Visiting arrangements may change, so please check before you go.
📖 A companion guide from Private Wisdom
Going beyond the usual route? Off the Beaten Path in Japan — the islands, small towns and quiet corners most visitors never reach, and how to get to them, from a long-time local. Free to read with Kindle Unlimited.
▶ Read on Amazon (Kindle Unlimited)Awaji, Kagawa and Shodoshima (September 2026)
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